I had been asked to build a set of custom screen doors for a client. They were huge 8 foot tall french doors. Honestly, it is a bit outside of my usual work, but figured I knew enough about the process to build them. It was a really fun project and I would be happy to build more.
Materials
The materials for this project started out a VG fir, but quickly changed to white oak once I was unable to source any VG fir. I am actually very happy that it went this way. The rift and quartered white oak was gorgeous! For this build, I followed a similar construction style as an episode of This Old House using rabbets and loose tenons.
YOUTUBE VIDEO
Short Version and Long Version Below
Rabbets and Mortises
After the material was cut to final width and length, I started cutting rabbets on the table saw. In doing so, it allows a small piece to be saved that acts just like screen molding. The rabbeted joint also allows a recess for the screen to sit in and a pseudo half lap for the rail to stile joints. I wish I had a good picture of this joint, but failed to take any. Along with rabbets I used loose tenons at each joint for added strength
Glue Up and Trim
After doing some sanding, a dry fit and making a few small tweaks, I was ready to glue up the doors. They will now be heavy forever. After the glue dried, I cut the extra length off the stiles and just kissed the bottom of the rails to flush it all up.
Jambs
At this stage I know exactly how wide the doors are and can finalize the jambs. I had to remove some thickness from the jambs to accommodate the rough opening. I was shooting for a 1/16″ gap between the doors. So very tight and I anticipated trimming them down on-site. I also notched out the top of the jambs to fit around the existing opening and added some large round-overs on the interior edge.
Hinge Mortising
These doors are thinner (1 18″) than most entry doors(1 3/8″) and it was tough to find a decent hinge that could use all of the screw holes without risk of blowing out a surface. I found some 3.5″ hinges and had to make custom shim for my hinge mortising plate. The hinges are not standard hinges, they are actually self closing hinges for fire rated doors. I figured this would help keep the doors shut in the wind, without a latch.
Door Straightener
I decided to install a door straightener in this door based on the existing doors bowing pretty badly at top. After installing the system and trying to use it, I am not sure how effective it will be. The doors are really stiff! If anyone is not familiar with a door straightener, it is a long rod that is threaded on the ends. Since the rod is not in very center of the thickness of the door, you can extend or contract the rod to help straighten a door. We will see if I ever have to use it
Finishing
After lots of sanding, stain samples, and deliberation on what finish to use, I decided to use Spar Urethane. I did two coats of 50/50 with mineral spirits and then 4 (or so) coats of full strength. What a process this was. It took my forever to get all of those coats on there and every coat had drips or sags. If I do another door, I will be trying something else. Maybe PPG Proluxe.
Screen Installation
After the finish had cured, I installed the screens. I clamped the screen in rough position and stapled one edge. Then I would stretch the screen to the bottom and staple that edge. Then, the left side with light pulling pressure and finally right side with light pressure. The staples would not fully seat due to the hardness of the oak, so I had to hammer them down a bit.
Door Installation – Jambs
The door installation started by mounting the jambs to the door opening. Before that I had to lay out where the holes would be and make some countersunk holes with a forstner bit. I will plug the holes after the screws go in. The masking tape makes a decent protective barrier when using the flush cut saw.
Door Installation – Door Panels
I made some handy little feet that clamp onto the door and give it some stability as well as adjustment in height and pitch. Essentially using 4 leveling feet per door. I just had to block up the door “close” and then micro adjust it. This is the only way I could have installed these doors by myself.
After the second door panel was installed I had a bit of an issue. The doors were a bit too wide and the top/bottom were slightly misaligned. So, I took my time and marked out what needed to be trimmed and removed the doors. I took them over to my bench (Bora Centipede) and used my track saw, router, sander to get them corrected.
Door Installation – Other Stuff
Next step was to install the plugs in the jamb, mount the door closures and then attach the center strip (Astragal) on the inside of the left door. The right closes into that strip. Then install the handles, apply polyurethane to my cut edges and plugs.
The very bottom of the right door kicked out a bit. So, that is why it looks misaligned. I added some bumpers to the door tops and this helped bring them into plane with each other.
